The Grassmarket: Edinburgh’s Independent Shopping and Dining Destination

Welcome to our Edinburgh Grassmarket Guide! Packed full of Independent Shops, Pubs & hidden gems, this is our very favourite part of the city of Edinburgh! Tucked beneath Edinburgh Castle‘s imposing rock, the Grassmarket has evolved into one of the city’s most vibrant quarters for independent shopping, eating, and drinking. This cobbled square, lined with colourful shopfronts and buzzing with atmosphere, offers a refreshing alternative to chain-dominated high streets. Whether you’re browsing unique boutiques, sampling artisan ice cream, or settling in for a pint with a view, the Grassmarket rewards leisurely exploration.

Shopping the Independent Way

At the heart of the Grassmarket’s retail scene, there’s us! Bill Baber Knitwear has been based at number 66 Grassmarket for 40 years of our nearly 50 year history. We love being part of this vibrant community right in the heart of Edinburgh. For more boutique shopping here, Fabhatrix creates handcrafted headpieces that range from elegant to whimsical, perfect if you’re after something truly one-of-a-kind for a special occasion.

Mr Woods Fossils

Mr Wood’s Fossils offers exactly what the name suggests: unique fossils, gems, and geological gifts that you definitely won’t find on any ordinary high street. Armstrong’s Vintage is the place for rummaging through carefully curated pre-owned pieces, where you might discover that perfect vintage jacket or accessory you never knew you needed.

Armstrongs Vintage Clothing

The boutique scene continues with Torn and Godiva, both offering distinctive fashion and accessories, while Semper Tattoo caters to those looking for professional body art in a reputable studio setting with gorgeous Victorian architecture.

Godiva in the Edinburgh Grassmarket

Sweet Treats and Coffee Stops

No visit to the Grassmarket is complete without joining the queue at Mary’s Milk Bar. Yes, there’s usually a queue, but it moves quickly and the wait is sweetened by views up to Edinburgh Castle. Mary trained at the prestigious Carpigiani Gelato University in Bologna, and she makes all her gelato fresh every morning in the tiny shop. The flavours change daily and range from classic (dark chocolate, pistachio) to adventurous (blue cheese and walnut butter, lavender and honey, hot cross bun spice). The retro 1930s interior is charming. Even locals will tell you this is genuinely some of the best ice cream in Scotland, and that’s saying something in a city not short of good gelato.

Mary’s Milk Bar

For old-fashioned sweetness, Bain’s Retro Sweets delivers proper traditional Scottish confectionery, the kind of place where you can fill a paper bag with tablet, fudge, and boiled sweets that taste like childhood holidays.

Jack at Bain’s Reto Sweets

Eating and Drinking with Character

The Grassmarket’s hospitality scene spans everything from historic pubs to contemporary eateries. Any Edinburgh Grassmarket guide that doesn’t include plenty of pubs would be lacking an important part of the vibe here. The White Hart Inn claims to be Edinburgh’s oldest pub, and whether that’s entirely accurate or not, it certainly feels steeped in history. The Beehive Inn and The Black Bull both offer that quintessential Scottish pub experience, dark wood, local ales, and the kind of atmosphere where you can easily spend an entire afternoon.

The Beehive

For something more modern, Cold Town House is a multi-level venue with a rooftop beer garden that offers spectacular castle views alongside craft beer and contemporary pub food. The Wee Pub, part of Biddy Mulligan’s next door, does exactly what it says on the tin, it’s wee, it’s cosy, and it’s perfect for a quiet pint away from the busier spots.

Cold Town House in the Edinburgh Grassmarket

Why Spend Time Here

What makes the Grassmarket special isn’t any single shop or restaurant, it’s the cumulative effect of spending a few hours wandering between independent businesses, each with their own character and story. You can watch knitwear being made by us at Bill Baber, queue for incredible gelato at Mary’s, browse vintage treasures at Armstrong’s and then settle into a historic pub with a pint and, maybe even a castle view. It’s the kind of afternoon that reminds you why independent businesses matter and why some neighbourhoods develop their own distinct personality.

Jack comes face to face with a Mummy in Armstrong’s Vintage

The Grassmarket manages to feel both touristy and authentically local at the same time. Yes, you’ll share the cobbles with visitors from around the world, but you’ll also spot Edinburgh residents popping in for their regular pint or picking up something from their favourite shop. That mix creates an energy that’s welcoming rather than exclusive, busy rather than overwhelming.

Whether you’re after quality Scottish knitwear that’s made right in front of you, artisan ice cream worth queueing for, vintage fashion finds, or simply a characterful place to eat and drink beneath Edinburgh Castle, the Grassmarket delivers. It’s a place to slow down, browse properly, and remember that shopping and dining can be about discovery rather than just transactions. That philosophy has kept Bill Baber Knitwear and many other independents thriving here for decades, and it’s what keeps both locals and visitors coming back. We can’t wait to welcome you to our favourite part of Edinburgh. We hope you’ve enjoyed this Edinburgh Grassmarket guide!